---
title: "Yamaha Road Star Bobber Builds"
slug: "6-facts-about-the-yamaha-roadstar-bobber"
description: "Yamaha Road Star bobber builds put 1,600-1,700cc of air-cooled V-twin to work. Build guide, specs, and why the Road Star is Japan's best big-bore platform."
pubDate: 2022-07-01T00:00:00.000Z
canonical: https://bobberbrothers.com/pages/6-facts-about-the-yamaha-roadstar-bobber/
---
## The Japanese V-Twin That Confuses Harley Guys

We rode a Road Star bobber into a Harley-only meetup two summers ago. Stripped, black, exhaust wrapped, solo seat. Three guys walked over asking what year Panhead was under the custom bodywork before they noticed the Yamaha logo on the cases. The conversation shifted from "nice bike" to "wait, that's a Yamaha?" - and then to genuine curiosity about the engine.

That's what the Road Star does. Yamaha built a 1,600-to-1,700cc air-cooled, pushrod V-twin with a 48-degree cylinder angle and four-valve heads. It's an engine architecture so close to the American playbook that the exhaust note alone can fool people. And as a [bobber](/pages/what-is-a-bobber-motorcycle/) platform, the Road Star is one of the most underrated options available - big displacement, belt drive, real torque, and used prices that make Dyna and Softail donors look overpriced.

## The Road Star Platform: Two Generations

Yamaha produced the Road Star from 1999 to 2014 across two main engine sizes. Both generations share the same fundamental design philosophy - Yamaha's direct challenge to the Harley Softail market.

### Road Star 1600 (XV1600A) - 1999-2003

- **Displacement:** 1,602cc (97.7 ci)
- **Configuration:** 48-degree V-twin, air-cooled, OHV pushrod
- **Valves:** 4 per cylinder
- **Bore x Stroke:** 95mm x 113mm
- **Compression:** 8.3:1
- **Power:** 62.6 hp at 4,000 RPM
- **Torque:** 99 lb-ft at 2,250 RPM
- **Fuel system:** Dual 40mm Mikuni carburetors
- **Transmission:** 5-speed manual
- **Final drive:** Belt
- **Wet weight:** ~700 lbs (stock touring configuration)

### Road Star 1700 (XV1700A) - 2004-2014

- **Displacement:** 1,670cc (101.9 ci)
- **Configuration:** 48-degree V-twin, air-cooled, OHV pushrod
- **Valves:** 4 per cylinder
- **Power:** ~84 hp at 4,400 RPM
- **Torque:** 99 lb-ft at 2,500 RPM
- **Fuel system:** Dual 40mm Mikuni carburetors (2004-2007); fuel injection (2008-2014)
- **Transmission:** 5-speed manual
- **Final drive:** Belt
- **Wet weight:** ~710 lbs (stock touring configuration)

The 1700 bumped bore from 95mm to 97mm, adding 68cc and delivering noticeably more power according to Yamaha's figures. In practice, the 1700 pulls harder across the entire rev range. Both motors feel similar in character - the 1700 just has more of everything.

One critical detail for bobber builders: **Road Stars from 1999 through 2007 are carbureted** - dual Mikuni carburetors, no electronics to fight. In 2008, Yamaha added fuel injection to the Road Star 1700 lineup. For builders who want carbureted simplicity, stick with 2007 and earlier models. More on that below.

### The Warrior Variant (XV1700PC) - 2002-2010

Yamaha also produced the Road Star Warrior, a sportier version with the same 1,670cc engine in a different chassis. The Warrior featured inverted forks, a shorter wheelbase, and a more aggressive 36-degree rake. Some builders use Warriors as bobber donors, but the Warrior's frame geometry is more "muscle bike" than traditional bobber. If you want a neo-classic bobber with long lines, the standard Road Star is the better starting point.

## Why the Road Star Makes a Killer Bobber

### Four-Valve Pushrod Heads

This is the technical detail that separates the Road Star engine from most American pushrod V-twins. Four valves per cylinder on a pushrod motor is unusual - most comparable Harley engines use two valves per cylinder. The four-valve heads breathe better at higher RPMs and produce a broader torque curve. The result is an engine that pulls strong from idle to redline without the narrow powerband that some Big Twins have at stock tune.

The air-cooled fins are deep and well-defined. Strip the stock bodywork and those fins become the visual centerpiece of the bike - polished or left natural, they look like something from a custom catalog rather than a factory floor.

### Belt Drive Already Installed

Like its spiritual competitor the Harley Softail, the Road Star uses belt final drive. On a bobber, belt means cleaner lines (no chain oiler dripping on your rear wheel), zero lubrication schedule, and quiet operation. Every dollar you don't spend on chain maintenance goes back into the build budget.

### Carbureted Models Are Actually an Advantage

Pre-2008 Road Stars use dual Mikunis, which means no proprietary diagnostic tools, no ECU tuning software, no dealer-only fuel maps. Carbs are tunable at home with jets, needles, and a screwdriver. Swap the stock airbox for velocity stacks or pod filters, re-jet the Mikunis, and you've got an intake that looks right and sounds right without plugging into a laptop. The 2008-2014 models received fuel injection, which is reliable but less DIY-friendly for custom intake work.

For builders who've dealt with fighting fuel injection on modern customs - trying to defeat O2 sensors, buying aftermarket fuel controllers, paying for dyno tunes - the simplicity of a carbureted big-twin is refreshing. That's why 1999-2007 models are the most popular bobber donors.

### Used Prices Haven't Caught Up

Road Stars haven't caught on with the custom crowd the way Sportsters and Shadows have. That means used prices remain low relative to displacement. Clean, running Road Star 1600s sell for $2,500 to $4,500. The 1700 models go for $3,000 to $5,500. High-mile or cosmetically rough bikes - exactly what you want for a bobber donor - drop below $2,000. Compare that to a Dyna or Softail of similar vintage and you're saving thousands on the donor alone.

## The Road Star Bobber Build Process

The Road Star is a big, heavy motorcycle in stock form. Converting it means removing significant weight and visual bulk. Here's how it breaks down.

### Phase One: Strip the Touring Gear

Stock Road Stars come loaded. Chrome, saddlebag mounts, windshield brackets, passenger seats, floorboards, highway bars - all of it comes off. Budget an afternoon for disassembly. You'll be surprised at the weight: 40 to 60 pounds of accessories, easily. Bag and label everything - some of it has resale value on the forums.

What's left is a relatively clean frame with that massive V-twin sitting front and center. This is the moment in every Road Star bobber build where you start seeing the finished bike in your head.

### Phase Two: Rear Fender and Seat

The stock Road Star rear fender is enormous - full-wrap coverage designed for touring comfort. Every bobber build starts by addressing it. Three approaches:

**Cut the stock fender.** Measure the length you want, mark a clean line, cut with an angle grinder, finish the edge. Free (you already have the fender) and looks good if your cut is straight and your edge finishing is clean.

**Aftermarket bobber fender.** Steel or aluminum, pre-formed for the Road Star's 16-inch rear tire. West-Eagle and various fabricators make options from $80 to $250.

**Fender delete.** Remove it entirely. Looks aggressive but means you're wearing every puddle and road spray up your back. Not practical for anyone who rides in weather.

For the seat, a spring solo mount gives the Road Star the classic look. The frame has a relatively flat top section behind the engine that accommodates spring seat hardware well. TC Bros and Lowbrow Customs both sell universal spring seat kits that work on this platform.

### Phase Three: Handlebars

Stock Road Star bars are wide and pulled back - touring position. For a bobber, most builders switch to drag bars, tracker bars, or moderate mini-apes. The Road Star uses 1-inch diameter handlebars with standard internal dimensions, so the aftermarket options are wide open. Budget $80 to $250 for bars, grips, and new cables.

### Phase Four: Exhaust

The stock two-into-two system is quiet, heavy, and visually bulky. Popular replacements:

**Drag pipes** - straight, un-baffled, loud, and light. They look right on a bobber but cost some bottom-end torque without re-jetting. Budget $150-$300.

**2-into-1 systems** - better performance than drag pipes with a cleaner visual. Vance & Hines and Road Star-specific fabricators offer these. Budget $400-$800.

**Wrapped stock headers with shorty mufflers** - the budget move. Wrap the headers, cut the stock mufflers short, and you've got a different-sounding bike for $50 in materials.

### Phase Five: Suspension

For a lower, more aggressive stance:

**Front:** Progressive fork springs or lowering kits drop the front end 1-2 inches without sacrificing too much travel.

**Rear:** Shorter shocks (Progressive 412 series or similar) lower the rear to match. Some builders attempt hardtail conversions, but welding a hardtail onto a Road Star frame is serious fabrication given the frame's diameter and material thickness. We'd recommend lowered shocks over a hardtail for most builders on this platform. Save the hardtail for a Sportster or XS650 where the frame is more forgiving.

### Optional: 21-Inch Front Wheel

A 21-inch front wheel swap is popular on Road Star bobbers - it visually stretches the bike and gives that classic long-front proportions. Stock Road Stars run 16-inch front and rear (some years/variants differ). The swap requires a new tire, possibly longer brake lines, and a new or modified front fender. Budget $500-$800 for a used spoked 21-inch wheel with tire and hardware.

## Build Cost Breakdown

Realistic budget for a Road Star bobber conversion, doing the work yourself:

| Component | Budget Range |
|---|---|
| Donor Road Star (running, titled) | $2,500 - $5,000 |
| Solo seat + spring mount | $150 - $350 |
| Rear fender (bobbed or aftermarket) | $0 - $250 |
| Exhaust (drag pipes or 2-into-1) | $150 - $800 |
| Handlebars + grips + cables | $80 - $250 |
| Lowering kit (front + rear) | $200 - $500 |
| Lighting (headlight, tail, signals) | $75 - $200 |
| Paint/powder coat (frame + tins) | $200 - $1,000 |
| Miscellaneous (brackets, hardware, fluids) | $100 - $300 |
| **Total** | **$3,455 - $8,650** |

The Road Star sits in the middle ground between budget Japanese bobbers (XS650, Shadow) and Harley builds. Significantly more engine than a Sportster for less money on the donor.

## Road Star Bobber vs. Warrior Bobber

Both share the 1,670cc engine (on the 1700 models), but the builds go in different directions:

| | Road Star Build | Warrior Build |
|---|---|---|
| **Frame geometry** | Long, relaxed, traditional cruiser | Shorter wheelbase, 36-degree rake |
| **Suspension** | Conventional forks, twin shocks | Inverted forks, single shock |
| **Stock wheels** | Spoked or cast, 16" | Cast, 18" front / 17" rear |
| **Visual result** | Classic bobber proportions | Modern muscle bobber |
| **Community support** | More builds documented | Smaller community |
| **Used price** | $2,500 - $5,500 | $3,000 - $6,000 |

The standard Road Star is the better platform for a traditional bobber. The Warrior works if you want something that reads more "muscle custom" than old school.

## Community Build Trends

The Road Star custom community lives on forums like Star Motorcycle Forums and dedicated Facebook groups. Notable directions we've seen:

**The "Neo-Vintage" approach** - modern performance parts (ported heads, big bore kits, performance cams) with vintage styling (metal flake paint, whitewalls, fishtail pipes). Some builders have pushed Road Star engines past 108 cubic inches with bore kits and cam upgrades.

**Flat tracker influence** - high bars, flat solo seat, minimal bodywork, number plates on the side. The Road Star's torque makes it surprisingly capable on dirt roads if you're willing to manage 600 pounds of motorcycle off-pavement.

**Rat rod builds** - patina paint, rust finishes, raw metal, visible welds. The Road Star's size and industrial engine look lend themselves to this aesthetic. A patina Road Star bobber has a presence that no clean paint job can replicate.

## Honest Limitations

### The Weight

Even stripped down, a Road Star bobber weighs 550-600 pounds. This is a big motorcycle. If you're coming from a Sportster or a Japanese 650, the Road Star will feel like a different category of machine in slow-speed situations. The low center of gravity helps - it doesn't feel top-heavy - but parking lots and U-turns demand respect and confidence.

### Five-Speed Transmission

The Road Star never got a sixth gear. With this engine's torque curve, five speeds are generally enough, but on the highway at 70 mph you'll wish for an overdrive ratio. RPMs sit around 3,000 at highway cruise - not dangerous, but higher than a six-speed would allow. Long highway stints get louder and buzzier than they need to be.

### Carburetors Need Seasonal Attention

On carbureted models (1999-2007), the dual Mikunis are reliable when ridden regularly but sensitive to sitting. If a Road Star hasn't been started in months, the carbs will need cleaning. Ethanol in modern fuel accelerates gumming in carb circuits. Use fuel stabilizer if you're storing the bike, and keep a carb rebuild kit on the shelf. This isn't a major issue - it's maintenance that every carbureted bike requires - but it's something fuel-injected bike owners don't think about. The 2008-2014 fuel-injected models eliminate this concern entirely.

## Where the Road Star Fits in the Bobber World

For Yamaha bobber platforms at different scales, the [XS400](/pages/5-facts-about-the-yamaha-xs400-bobber/) is the lightweight end of the spectrum - a 391cc parallel twin for city and back-road riders. The [XS650](/pages/essential-things-you-should-know-about-the-legendary-yamaha-xs-650/) is the most legendary Japanese bobber platform, sitting in the middle. The Road Star is the big-bore option that trades punches with Harley displacement.

For a direct comparison to what Harley offers in similar territory, the Harley-Davidson Dyna guide covers the platform that occupies the same market space on the American side. Our best Harley bobber builds and [remarkable bobber builds](/pages/11-remarkable-bobber-motorcycle-builds/) roundups show what's possible across platforms and budgets. And the Yamaha V-Star 1100 bobber is worth reading if you want a mid-displacement Yamaha alternative.

If you're ready to build and want to understand the full process from donor selection through first ride, our custom bobber build guide walks through every step. And when the build is done, the [Bobber Brothers collection](/collections/all/) has gear for riders who actually wrench.

## Sources

- [AutoEvolution - Yamaha Road Star (1999-2000) Specs, Performance & Photos](https://www.autoevolution.com/moto/yamaha-road-star-1999.html) - factory specifications for the XV1600A including power, torque, and chassis data
- [BikesWiki - Yamaha XV1600 Road Star (Wild Star)](https://bikeswiki.com/Yamaha_XV1600_Road_Star_(Wild_Star)) - technical data, production history, and engine specifications for the 1600 platform
- [MotorcycleSpecs.co.za - Yamaha XV1600 Road Star](https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_xv1600_wild_star%2099.htm) - complete specifications including 48-degree V-twin configuration and four-valve pushrod head design
- [AutoEvolution - Yamaha Road Star All Models by Year (1999-2014)](https://www.autoevolution.com/moto/yamaha/road-star/) - model year comparison covering both 1600 and 1700 displacement variants
- [Wikipedia - Yamaha Road Star (XV1600A)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_Road_Star) - production history, V-twin specifications, and trim variants from 1999 through 2014